Madeira’s islands are shrouded in legend. There are claims that it was once joined to the continents of Europe and America; others say it is the remains of Plato’s lost City of Atlantis
History of Madeira
All that is known for sure is that in the 15th century Portuguese explorers came across a small volcanic archipelago, 600 miles from Lisbon, and claimed it for Portugal. This was a stroke of luck as it is thought they were heading for Guinea in West Africa when storms forced them onto the beach at Porto Santo, the only large sandy beach for hundreds of miles around. Had they reached Madeira first they would not have been able to land as the entire coastline is composed of jagged volcanic rock. The following year they came back and claimed the larger island which was named ‘Ilha da Madeira’, The Island of Timber, and the first colonists arrived in the early 1420’s.
Madeira Today
The capital, Funchal, at 741 square km., is bigger than perhaps expected for such a small island. Walking is really the only way to get around and see things. It is an attractive city with narrow cobbled streets full of shops and restaurants leading ever upwards, while wide elegant boulevards fringed with palm trees stretch horizontally from the ocean. It’s an elegant city, with pavements decorated with attractive motifs cut from volcanic stone.
What to Do in Madeira, Starting with the Farmers' Market
Explore the narrow streets which stretch up the hill as you make your way to the Farmers' Market (Mercado dos Lavadores). There is a huge fish market here selling some very strange looking fish. It’s a bustling place with vendors calling out and the constant sound of chopping and scraping as the fish are cleaned while people wait. Madeira’s specialty fish is Espada, a rather scary, ink-black eel-like creature which can grow to around a metre (3 ft) in length and has long, needle-sharp teeth. Looks aren’t everything and it has delicious white meat. Often fillets are fried with bananas which is delicious.
The floor above the fish market is a cornucopia of fruit and vegetables, often many unusual tropical varieties which some visitors may not have seen before. There are also several wicker and handicraft stalls as well as some selling traditional embroidery, which make attractive gifts.
Stroll Along Funchal Promenade
Walk the length of the promenade and explore the seafront. The waves rush over the beach which is chocolate brown in colour since it is volcanic dust, but it feels like sand underfoot and is perfectly fine for a beach stroll. Along the prom are many cafes and restaurants, vendors of roasted chestnuts, and lots of seats for people-watching and gazing at the huge cruise ships anchored in the bay for a day or two.
Visit a Traditional Fishing Village
Camera de Lobes (Lair of the Sea Wolves) is a small fishing village where Winston Churchill sometimes came to paint. Its unusual name refers to the seals that used to swim here. Take a local bus from the Funchal waterfront. It is less than a half hour ride and costs just under two euros. The bus takes you along by the waterfront where the big tourist hotels are mostly located and climbs high into the hills. The road is lined on one side with traditional houses with deeply terraced gardens: on the other side is the ocean. In the village, depending on what time of day it is, fishermen play cards alongside their boats and there’s a pretty little church where you can rest for awhile. There's not a lot to see here but it is a real working village and not particularly touristy.
Valley of the Nuns (Curral das Freiras)
Looking down on this small village from the top of the road into an enormous volcanic crater is one of the most dramatic sights on the island. Only ten miles from Funchal the village is easy to reach by bus, taxi or organized tours. It is best seen from above.
The story is that a group of nuns fled here in the 16th century in order to escape raiding pirates. It was the perfect place as it is hidden on all sides by inaccessible mountains. The nuns were isolated for over four hundred years until tunnels were bored through the mountain to bring the first roads.
There's much more to see and do. The only other inhabited island is Porto Santo which has a long sandy beach and is a short boat trip from Madeira. There are wonderful walking trails known as levadas which criss-cross the island and are suited to all levels of walking.
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